March 29th This wins the prize for sign of the day – it’s a business by the side of the Darkuman road. A deserted stall, with a picture of a pig’s head, and “great pork show!” above it.  With an exclamation mark, to convey the excitement of the pork show. I’m tempted to return when the […]

March 28th Out to Legon to do a couple of interviews at the national university. On the trotro going out, I kept hearing worried chicken sounds and couldn’t figure out why. The woman next to me had a small black plastic bag on her knee, and as she moved to get comfortable, a chicken stuck […]

It’s cool tonight, after the long hot bus ride from Kumasi. There’s lightning all around, but it’s not raining yet. There’s a fresh breeze rustling the palm trees around the porch, and the muezzins are singing in the mosque down the street. A good night to be in Accra.

March 26th The soaps here are very big on possession and exorcism. Today the chief’s son was possessed, and couldn’t get out of bed. His mother was very anxious, but luckily the local shaman was able to sort him out. Off into Kumasi again, to interview the wife of one of yesterday’s interviewees. This is […]